Teddy Roosevelt National Park
THEODORE ROOSEVELT NATIONAL PARK
It can be easy to forget the modern world exists when stepping foot in Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Rugged, untamed terrain, as far as the eye can see, beckons to be explored - over 70,000 acres, to be exact! I often imagine what the first settlers thought when coming upon this land. All land surrounding the badlands is grassy, flat and somewhat… boring. And then, suddenly, the earth just falls away and the dramatic, rock-layered buttes and wild brushy canyons are revealed.
Its pure magic.
Looking out as far as you can see there is very little sign of humankind. And even less sign of modern civilization. Bison, elk, mule deer and wild horses roam the park freely and can be seen easily from the comfort of your vehicle. Active and adorable prairie dog villages are scattered throughout with the tiny chirps and chatter of their intricate little society.
Short and long hikes take you on a more personal exploration of the land. Whether sunset or sunrise, a hike in Teddy Roosevelt NP will completely change your perspective on life.
But don’t take my word for it! Nobody could write it better than Teddy himself, who came to this area in his mid-20’s:
"My home ranch-house stands on the river brink. From the low, long veranda, shaded by leafy cotton-woods, one looks across sand bars and shallows to a strip of meadowland, behind which rises a line of sheer cliffs and grassy plateaus. This veranda is a pleasant place in the summer evenings when a cool breeze stirs along the river and blows in the faces of the tired men, who loll back in their rocking-chairs (what true American does not enjoy a rocking-chair?), book in hand--though they do not often read the books, but rock gently to and fro, gazing sleepily out at the weird-looking buttes opposite, until their sharp outlines grow indistinct and purple in the after-glow of the sunset."
-Theodore Roosevelt
Here are my tips for visiting TRNP:
1. Go during the week. Drives through the park and hiking trails are rarely ‘crowded’, but if you really want a quiet experience, visit on weekdays. **Bonus, the musical is free for kids on Wednesdays!
2. Start out by doing the South Unit’s scenic drive. Whether you have an RV full of family or just driving solo, the scenic drive is a must must. It is a 48-mile in-and-out drive (not currently a loop) and you can drive until you feel like turning around and then come back. It would take two hours to do the entire drive.
3. Wildlife seem most active around sunrise and sunset. The wildlife sightings I’ve experienced here have been nothing short of heart-stopping! Elk, bison, prairie dogs, mule deer, antelope and wild horses are abundant in the park! Watch far away and close up, check the grassy meadows for the horses and bison. Check up high for elk, coyotes, and sheep. Check the edges of the prairie dog towns for coyotes. And if you see a car or two pulled over, it likely means they’ve spotted something.
4. Go anytime of year! I often say that the best way to view the badlands is with a dusting of snow. It brings out the red rock, layered terrain and shows off the vast distances. A drive through western North Dakota on i94 ALWAYS requires a stop in the park.
5. Get the America the Beautiful pass. For $80/year you get access to any national park for an entire year. Free for veterans, persons with disabilities and 4th graders, this pass is a no-brainer for anyone who plans to visit more than a few national parks in a year. It is only $20/year for seniors age 62+ or $80 for a lifetime pass for seniors age 62+.
https://www.nps.gov/planyourvisit/passes.htm#america-the-beautiful-passes
6. Get out and walk around. There are great hiking trails in the park of varying difficulty. My favorite is the Wind Canyon Trail (.4 miles, 20 minutes in and out). A close second is the Petrified Forest Trail (10.3 miles, difficult, 5-6 hours) which I traversed on horseback but could be done on foot. I don’t, however, recommend doing the full loop as it is very interesting in the beginning, and then like 4 hours of flat, grassy plains, then very interesting at the end. Instead, I recommend going in the south loop until you reach the petrified forest, then turn around and head up to the north petrified fores. Wear some good hiking shoes with laced up ankles for this one!
